LOMBOK: Pura Meru

Lombok has some Sasak villages on the east side that sound fascinating (to me). Villages were you can see the Sasak people handweaving cloth or baskets, or spinning pottery, or carving wooden crafts. But I knew the 3 hour drive in the back of a taxi with no seat belts would put the boys in our family (all 3) over the edge. So we satisfied my cultural cravings with a 20 minute trip to Mataram. The guide book said we could find a handweaving shop and a pottery centre right next to the temple. 

But this was Lombok. 

We could not find a thing. 

And nobody knew what we were talking about. 

Eventually we did make it to the temple. 

Pura Meru - the largest and oldest Hindu temple on Lombok. Build in 1720 by Balinese prince

The temple keeper welcomed us in, handed us sashes to tie around our waists and gave us a tour, his kids leading the way.  He was very knowledgeable about the history and stooped down to write in the sand, explaining the number of tiers and how they relate to the gods and the 3 big volcanoes of Indonesia.

3 towers for the 3 gods of Hinduism - Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva

offerings

suckers for the kids

After the tour we mentioned to the temple keeper that we were looking for a weaving workshop from our guidebook that could not be found. "You want to see handwoven cloth? Come see my mother in law." We walked just around the corner and down the back alley to his neighborhood, the kids running ahead. 

Their neighbor had their own private temple in the backyard. 

And sure enough there was Mother in Law weaving cloth with Old Blind Granny, skinny dogs and noisy roosters keeping her company. The temple keeper said it takes her 2 days to do 1 meter of cloth and she sells them at the local market. 

So off we went to the local market. The only gringos in sight. Stepping over piles of mangosteens and durian for sale, past stacks of baskets and onto towers of gorgeous handwoven cloth. It was the kind of place I always wish I could have taken more pictures, but felt too conspicuous with my huge camera. Not the best scenario for good negotiating, but at least I didn't pay the first price : )