MYANMAR: shopping

We did not expect to do any shopping in Yangon. We knew it wasn't going to be like Bangkok. But we all fell in love with this shop above Monsoon restaurant, Pomelo. 

They are a fairtrade marketplace that sells products made by project initiatives. The women in the shop could tell you about each item and who made it. Like the darling baby dolls made by HIV positive widows or the blue glass vase made from glass bottles purchased from trash collectors or the bags made by Cyclone Nargis survivors.

We all had to rearrange our luggage to get it all home. 

The Bogyoke Aung San Market was also a surprise. 

Although no one will take your money if it has a small tear or wrinkle so money changers were a welcome sight.

Kristie being fitted for her longyi. 

MYANMAR: monasteries

The Kalaywa monastery might have been my favorite stop. 

In Myanmar all men are expected to become a monk at 2 times in their life. Once as a child and once as an adult (usually in 20s). Its seen as a good spiritual education and a privilege. 

This monastery had a separate school for girls as well. Some of whom were orphans but some were sponsored by their families. They sleep, eat and are educated in the monastery. 

They were beautiful, friendly and curious. But didn't talk to us. And you can see that they don't put thanaka on their faces. 

laundry

drinking water

In the morning they walk the streets for morning alms as a chance to let local people make merit with Buddha by making donations of food. 

They have their second and final meal of the day in the mid afternoon. The youngest ones can eat again before bed but they explained that this was an exercise to strengthen the spiritual mind over the body. 

We arrived just as they were lining up for lunch. A huge pot of rice that two men carried over with some curry. 

The boys were just finishing lunch. See their metal lunch boxes and their big black alms bowls. 

The director of the monastery was happy to have us come in and learn. He told us that most of the youngest boys were orphans. One of them slapped his behind and giggled as he walked past. While 3 more ran down the hall. They had over 300 young novices.

Monks need to follow the 5 buddhist precepts - do not kill, steal, or lie, no sexual misconduct, drugs or alcohol. 

Do no evil. Cultivate good. Purify your mind. 

It was amazing to hear this from their teacher and see this big group of boys in front of me. I thought of my own boys at home. And of our schools in America. 

Blurry Burmese graffiti on the lunchroom table. 

MYANMAR: Shwedagon and other payas

The Shwedagon Paya is the most sacred Buddhist site in Yangon and it was gorgeous. Our guide told us that all Myanmar buddhists hope to visit at least once in their lifetime. 

It was very quiet as we walked around except for the sound of tinkling gold bells and your bare feet slapping the rain soaked floor. The whole place smelled like incense and ginger lilies. 

We hired our guide at the entrance clad in longyi and white shirt. He is a professor of Archaeology at the university and does tours on the weekend for extra income. 

He told us stories of the British, pointed out thousands of diamonds on the stupa, taught us about the Buddha and spoke with sadness about the political history of his country. 

He taught us about the 8 shrines surrounding the stupa. One for each day. You pray at the one when you were born. You can place your flower offerings, wash the Buddha with holy water, light your candle and pray. 

The stupas started shining as the sun set.

This is me at my Thursday shrine. 

Dr. Soe reminded us that for Myanmar people, Buddha was a real person so they don't pray to the Buddha. You wish on Buddha, but the work is your own. On his hands and knees he bowed to the Buddha 5 times to show respect for his parents, his teachers, Buddha, Buddha's teachings and himself. 5 points touching the ground - hands, feet and forehead.  

Alms beads. 

Kristie's husband, Patrick, lived in Yangon when he was a boy. He remembered the entry stairs to the pagoda the best. How they smelled, how they looked and how it made him feel. In the 80s it was much different than today. Today, the stairs were clean and beautiful and had shops selling offerings and souvenirs all along the way. 

The Shwedagon at night from our hotel. 

We also visited the Chaukhtatgyi Buddha and the Nga Htat Gy pagoda. I didn't have any pictures of at Nga Htat Gy, poor lighting and a foggy lens are not my friends. At Nga Htat Gy was a huge sitting Buddha and a peaceful atmosphere with lots of local Burmese people despite the weather. 

At Chaukhtatgyi we listened to the stories gilded into the bottom of his feet and how to be a good Buddhist while the rain pounded loudly on the tin roof.