Yangon, MYANMAR (BURMA)

"This is Burma. And it is quite unlike any place you know about." - Rudyard Kipling

I took a short weekend trip to Yangon, Myanmar with some wonderful friends. I haven't stopped thinking about that place and the people who live there since we got back. And I've developed a minor (ok, major) obsession with Aung San Suu Kyi.



Eating curries and spring rolls at Monsoon with Erika, Sarah and Kristie.






Yangon used to be Rangoon. And Myanmar used to be Burma. Got it?

The country has only really been open to tourists since 2011.  So we all felt really lucky to be in southeast asia and able to see this beautiful place. We spent our time in Yangon but Bagan and Mandalay are definitely calling to me now. They look incredible.

Yangon is in the south of Myanmar and used to be the capital city until the government moved to Nay Pyi Taw in 2005. Myanmar's history is complicated and controversial. Here's my abbreviated understanding:

until the 1800s : amazing temples and powerful kings, empires and wars

1885-1948 : Britsh colonization after 3 ugly Anglo-Burmese wars

1948 : Independencee from Britain after long struggle and efforts of hero Aung San

1962 : socialism

1989 - 2010 : changed name to Myanmar after military Junta took over government, uprisings, unrest, dark age of military regime, oppression, violence, famous house arrest of hero Aung San Suu Kyi

2010 : lots of changes in the government, UN lifted sanctions, Obama and Hilary visit, writing a new constitution






Although there have been lots of recent changes (private newspapers just 4 months ago) our guide told us he has seen little change trickle down to the people. They are still poor, still have little access to education and health care. But "3 years ago I would have put in prison if I sayed that."

But even so, all the people we met we so nice and friendly. The culture was rich. And because there isn't a strong tourism infrastructure no one hassled us and most looked surprised and curious to see 4 foreign women walking down the street. 

And walking down the street really is my favorite part. 

Although you have to watch where you step! Most sidewalks look like this if there even is a sidewalk. 

We saw few people in western clothes. Most Myanmar people wear the longyi - men and women. And carry the metal lunch boxes.

Almost every woman wore thanaka on her face. Its a cosmetic to protect against the sun and make the skin beautiful. Even on little boys and babies. This woman invited us to come sit down and eat with her. 

These old 1950s buses were everywhere. and crammed full of people. 

Tea shops

street food

lots of colonial architecture. 

The main downtown area was full of big colonial buildings, clock towers, monuments, but by the time we walked down there it was pouring rain and I have not mastered how to shoot pictures in monsoon season with a foggy lens. 

This picture really shows the dichotomy between Yangon's colonial hisotry and its present underdeveloped infastructure. I assumed this bus was broken down until a bunch of passengers boarded and it drove off.

I read that going to Yangon was like going back 50 years. And it did feel like that. Because of government corruption and mismanagement even having a cell phone was difficult. In 2011 it was $3,000 US dollars for a SIM card. In 2012 our guide used all his savings to buy one for his business for $500 and now it only costs $1.50 but there's a limited number so you have to win the lucky draw.




Popular local restaurant - Feel. 

Traveling with these girls was so much fun. Monsoon season didn't stop us. And we were so glad we hired a guide. 

It was interesting to hear his stories. He remembers hearing the official declaration over the radio that the military had to take control but it would only be for a short time. He told us about his friends in the 2007 monk demonstration and about his elderly mother voting in the 2008 elections for all 7 members of his family while they were out because the officials told her to. But he was hopeful and was excited that more people were coming to visit his country. 

our hotel

gotta pose for a picture with our guide after long day of sight seeing and shopping.

MYANMAR: shopping

We did not expect to do any shopping in Yangon. We knew it wasn't going to be like Bangkok. But we all fell in love with this shop above Monsoon restaurant, Pomelo. 

They are a fairtrade marketplace that sells products made by project initiatives. The women in the shop could tell you about each item and who made it. Like the darling baby dolls made by HIV positive widows or the blue glass vase made from glass bottles purchased from trash collectors or the bags made by Cyclone Nargis survivors.

We all had to rearrange our luggage to get it all home. 

The Bogyoke Aung San Market was also a surprise. 

Although no one will take your money if it has a small tear or wrinkle so money changers were a welcome sight.

Kristie being fitted for her longyi. 

MYANMAR: monasteries

The Kalaywa monastery might have been my favorite stop. 

In Myanmar all men are expected to become a monk at 2 times in their life. Once as a child and once as an adult (usually in 20s). Its seen as a good spiritual education and a privilege. 

This monastery had a separate school for girls as well. Some of whom were orphans but some were sponsored by their families. They sleep, eat and are educated in the monastery. 

They were beautiful, friendly and curious. But didn't talk to us. And you can see that they don't put thanaka on their faces. 

laundry

drinking water

In the morning they walk the streets for morning alms as a chance to let local people make merit with Buddha by making donations of food. 

They have their second and final meal of the day in the mid afternoon. The youngest ones can eat again before bed but they explained that this was an exercise to strengthen the spiritual mind over the body. 

We arrived just as they were lining up for lunch. A huge pot of rice that two men carried over with some curry. 

The boys were just finishing lunch. See their metal lunch boxes and their big black alms bowls. 

The director of the monastery was happy to have us come in and learn. He told us that most of the youngest boys were orphans. One of them slapped his behind and giggled as he walked past. While 3 more ran down the hall. They had over 300 young novices.

Monks need to follow the 5 buddhist precepts - do not kill, steal, or lie, no sexual misconduct, drugs or alcohol. 

Do no evil. Cultivate good. Purify your mind. 

It was amazing to hear this from their teacher and see this big group of boys in front of me. I thought of my own boys at home. And of our schools in America. 

Blurry Burmese graffiti on the lunchroom table.